MILAN (AP) \u2014 Fashion is off the hamster wheel, taking a deep breath that is allowing some freshness to seep into the once relentless cycle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cIt is so weird thinking about fashion, and the kind of hamster wheel of fashion, and how we never had a break and always complained about it,\u201d Marc Jacobs said during a Milan Fashion Week video chat with Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons post-digital show. \u201cAnd then you get a break, and you complain.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Instead, he said, he was taking the moment to watch others, and be inspired.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Milan Fashion Week of mostly womenswear previews for next fall and winter wrapped a nearly all-digital edition on Monday. And while the bustle of live shows with the parade of itinerant fashionistas decamping from New York to London, Milan and finally Paris was missed, designers also found new inspiration in the quiet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Austrian designer Arthur Arbesser shrank his collection to just 25 looks, which he presented in visits to his Milan studio and video calls, opting out of a digital runway show.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
For the creations, he upcycled textiles from previous collections that had been stashed in a studio cubbyhole. The designer revitalized them either by printing a new design on the other side, in the case of a pretty pleated skirt, or printing over the original with a different pattern, in the case of a black architectural detailing over a striped cotton.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Arbesser said the enforced quiet of the COVID-19-era restrictions, along with the necessity of saving money, pushed other creative forces to the fore. He and his team created a patchwork minidress out of cotton, silk and technical nylon, and they experimented with Shibori hand-dying for a wool mini.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The collection bears Arbesser\u2019s love of prints, this season\u2019s inspired by an actual painter\u2019s palette that he picked up at a flea market, which he mashes up with geometrical patterns in materials that range from soft silk jersey to wool to knits.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cI felt it was important to keep writing this story, my little story, keep adding chapters,\u201d Arbesser said of his 8-year-old brand. \u201cI am happy that even if I am doing something so reduced, so little, while at the same time producing quality, you can still be seen, you can actually sell your production.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Global masters Dolce&Gabbana took a technological leap forward with a no-holds-barred, youth-inspired collection featuring technical textiles in bold hues intermingled with hologram finishes, metallic glimmers and even multi-colored Styrofoam beads, for a feast of colorful confections.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The 140 looks included some reinterpretations of Domenico Dolce and Stefan Gabbana\u2019s iconic pieces \u2014 including Madonna\u2019s bejeweled bodysuit and corsets worn by dancers in Prince\u2019s \u201cCream\u201d video \u2014 from the early days when Dolce&Gabbana helped define the bold sexiness of the 1990s.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The result was a mix of Dolce&Gabbana\u2019s trademark tailoring, often under layers of pearls and gold, alongside more futuristic garments that bely our new protective bearing: elaborate eye shields, plastic sneaker coverings and transparent slickers. Underlining this leap forward, a humanoid robot developed by the Italian Institute of Technology acted as master of ceremonies for the digital runway show.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The result was a mix of Dolce&Gabbana\u2019s trademark tailoring \u2014 underlined by a humanoid robot who acted as master of ceremonies for the digital runway show.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cThe collection is a tribute to this generation that asks us about the 1990s,\u201d Dolce said during an in-person presentation of the looks at the designer\u2019s showroom.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The designers said the younger generation\u2019s idea of sexy is much freer of preconceived notions than in the past, meaning men can wear lace T-shirts without a second thought.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cIt has nothing to do with sexuality,\u201d Gabbana said. \u201cIt is almost a euphemism, it\u2019s about pleasing themselves.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The fashion world also paid tribute to creative colleagues in the theater, who have been mostly empty in Italy since the start of the pandemic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Pierpaolo Piccioli staged the Valentino Fall\/Winter 2020\/21 collection live to empty seats in Milan\u2019s Piccolo Theater, while the singer Cosima hauntingly intoned Sinead O\u2019Conner\u2019s lyrics: \u201cIt\u2019s been so lonely without you here.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n
The Valentino collection was a somber affair, fitting the moment. It featured tailored jackets that have been reconstructed into capes, layered with pointy-collared white shirts, skin-fitting tops with seemingly hand-cut holes. For women, there was a movement in flouncy miniskirts peeking out of jacket hems, while feminine flourishes like ruffles on shirts were employed with discipline. Accessories featured studded bags and boots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Milan designer Francesca Liberatore had planned an extravagant show in a Milan theater with holographic effects, but decided against it in solidarity with theater creatives who can\u2019t occupy that space.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
\u201cI had the moral problem \u2014 how could I do a show in a theater at this moment when artists themselves cannot recite in this place?\u201d Liberatore said by phone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Instead, her virtual show featured an actor on an empty stage, and holographic models wearing her creations, featuring reinvented trenches in camouflage, representing the state of siege society is living under in the pandemic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
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